Tom kha gai, chicken coconut galangal soup

Cut the galangal into thin rounds.

Use the bottom half of the lemongrass: smash it, cut off the end, remove the dry outer layer and cut into chunks, to release the aroma.

Bruise the chilies or cut them in big pieces so the heat infuses gently.

Tear the mushrooms into bite-sized pieces.

Bring the chicken stock to a boil and add the salt.

Add the chicken thigh and braise at a low simmer, not a boil, about 20 minutes until fork tender and seasoned through.

Transfer to a bigger pot, turn up the heat, add the coconut milk, the herbs and chilies, and about one tablespoon of the fish sauce, keeping some back since evaporation changes how much salt is needed.

Add a teaspoon of palm sugar, bring back to a boil and simmer a few minutes to infuse the herbs; tear the lime leaves before adding (here cut with scissors in the pot).

Add the mushrooms and cook about a minute.

Taste and adjust with the remaining fish sauce once everything is in.

Turn off the heat and add lime juice to taste; the sourness should be secondary.

The herbs are left in but not eaten; bundle them in cheesecloth or a strainer to remove if serving guests. Garnish with green onions.