Tom kha gai

Cut rounds (of an ingredient not named aloud); cut lemongrass in chunks, roughly tear kaffir lime leaves, cut chilies into big pieces so the spice infuses gently.

Use chicken stock instead of water as the base; add a teaspoon of salt.

Add chicken thighs and cook 20 minutes for tenderness.

Add coconut milk, fish sauce and palm sugar to round off the salt and acid; infuse the herbs just a few minutes.

Add the mushrooms; finish with lime juice, not all of it, and green onions.