Tom yum shrimp pizza with overnight dough, broiler-skillet method

Pound thinly sliced lemongrass a little at a time until fine, then pound in galangal, kefir lime leaves and optional Thai chili to a herb paste.

Pulse canned whole peeled tomatoes briefly in a blender, not to a full puree.

Warm chopped garlic gently in olive oil on low heat a few minutes until the smallest pieces turn golden.

Add the blended tomatoes, Thai chili paste and fish sauce; reduce until very thick, about an hour.

Stir in the herb paste and simmer three to five minutes to infuse.

Off the heat, add fresh lime juice to loosen to pizza sauce consistency; taste and adjust with chilies, fish sauce or sugar.

Whisk bread flour with a little salt and sugar, then instant yeast; add water and a touch of olive oil and stir by hand into a rough dough.

Knead briefly, about 30 seconds after the moisture is evenly distributed; leave it rough and shaggy.

Cut in half and put each piece in a lightly oiled bowl; cover and rise in the fridge for a day, then two hours at room temperature before shaping (or 1.5 to 2 hours at room temperature if rushed).

Halve the shrimp horizontally, slice shallots, tear oyster mushrooms bite-sized and oil them lightly.

Flour the baking pan generously, flatten the dough into a circle on it, flour both sides and stretch to 10 inches.

Spread on the sauce and add the toppings.

Broil on high at the top rack about two to three minutes, rotating halfway for uneven broilers, until the top is cooked and the crust golden; preheat a skillet meanwhile.

Transfer to the hot skillet and cook about two minutes until the bottom is browned.

Garnish with cilantro and serve hot.