Tomato tartine with pistachio pesto

Combine the basil, parsley, cilantro, pistachios, red onion, olive oil, Parmesan, lemon zest, lemon juice and salt in a food processor.

Spin 20 to 30 seconds, no longer than needed to break down the basil and nuts; the pesto should be smooth and saucy with some chunkiness from the nuts.

Variation, by hand: chiffonade the basil in two directions, then chop the parsley, cilantro and salt together, then the onion and pine nuts.

Variation, by hand: move the chopped pile to a bowl and stir in the Parmesan, lemon zest, lemon juice and olive oil, plus about 30 grams more oil.

Cut the loaf into five to six slices about three quarters of an inch thick with a serrated knife.

Broil the slices on a sheet tray 30 to 60 seconds per side, watching by eye rather than timer.

Slice the tomatoes just over a quarter inch thick with a serrated knife, discarding the firm white stem interior.

Spread two to three tablespoons of pesto edge to edge on the toast, working it into the holes of the bread.

Shingle the tomato slices over the pesto, pressing each one down as it is laid.

Finish with flaky salt, cracked black pepper, red chili flake and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.