Tonkotsu ramen

Put the neck bones, trotter and fatback in a stock pot, cover with water and bring to a hard boil.

Pour off the first water and spray the bones clean with cold water.

Move the bones to a pressure cooker, top with the water and cook on high pressure for an hour and 20 minutes.

Without a pressure cooker, simmer on the stove top four to five hours.

For the tare, put the kombu, bonito, anchovies and dried shiitake in a saucepan with the soy sauce, sugar and water.

Bring to just below a simmer, about 200F, and steep one hour without hard boiling.

Tie the pork shoulder into a round roast with twine, wrapping and pulling for tension.

Sear the roast on all sides in a hot Dutch oven with olive oil until golden brown.

Add the water, sliced ginger and soy sauce, bring to a simmer, drop to low, cover and cook about 90 minutes.

Move the broth back to the stock pot and boil very hard 30 minutes to emulsify the fat; it reduces by 25 to 30 percent.

Strain the umamis out of the tare, and strain the bones out of the broth.

Cool the pork in its liquid about an hour, then wrap and refrigerate overnight.

Combine the bread flour, salt and baked soda in a food processor.

Spread a cup of baking soda on a parchment lined sheet tray and bake at 225F for an hour to make sodium carbonate.

Stir the food coloring into the water and drizzle it into the running processor until evenly hydrated and pebbly.

Let the dough hydrate passively 30 minutes, then squeeze it together into a clod.

Cut into four strips, link into one belt, roll flatter with a rolling pin to about 24 inches.

Pass through the pasta roller on its widest setting, fold in half, pass again, then roll down through the settings to number six, folding and repeating.

Cut into 12 inch sheets, flour both sides liberally, trim the corners and run through the spaghetti cutter.

Measure the noodles into four five ounce portions and refrigerate.

Boil six eggs exactly seven minutes, drain and chill in ice water, then peel.

Bag the peeled eggs with the water, mirin and soy sauce and marinate four to 24 hours.

Combine the canola oil, sesame oil, garlic and ginger in a saucepan and sizzle over medium until the garlic is fragrant.

Add the gochujang and paprika, stir and fry about 30 seconds, then add the mirin and honey.

Blend with an immersion blender about 30 seconds in a high-sided container.

Slice the cold chashu. Combine the tare and the pork broth and bring to a ripping boil, warming the serving bowl in the oven.

Blend the hot broth with the immersion blender for 10 seconds to emulsify the fat.

Warm two slices of chashu in the broth; boil one portion of noodles in lightly salted water for 90 seconds.

Load the noodles into the bowl of broth, shingle the pork, add half a marinated egg, sliced scallions and a dollop of the aroma oil.