Traditional carbonara with guanciale

Cut the guanciale into sizable chunks and set aside.

Put three large eggs and one yolk in a medium bowl. Finely grate the cheese, half Pecorino Romano and half Parmigiano Reggiano, and beat the eggs into it with a fork until homogenous. Add plenty of black pepper; no salt yet, since guanciale varies in saltiness.

Put the guanciale in a cold pan, then turn the heat to medium so the fat renders slowly; cook until fully cooked but not too crispy and almost no longer bubbling, then kill the heat.

Boil the pasta in water as salty as the sea, keeping it moving; check doneness by eating a strand.

Add the pasta straight to the pan with the guanciale and toss to coat in the fat.

Working quickly, add the egg and cheese mixture and agitate vigorously so the residual heat cooks it into a smooth emulsified sauce without curdling.

Taste and salt as needed; optionally toss to aerate.

Twirl the pasta into a cylinder with a carving fork on a long plate and top with the remaining guanciale and sauce from the pan.