Triple coffee sweet rolls

Put instant espresso powder in the stand mixer bowl, add very hot milk and whisk to dissolve.

Cool until just warm to the touch, 90 to 95 degrees, checked with a thermometer; too hot kills the yeast.

Add the yeast, salt, a little sugar, one beaten egg and plenty of melted butter, then most of the all-purpose flour.

Mix on low with the dough hook, adding the rest of the flour if needed; once the dough pulls from the sides, go up one notch and knead 3 or 4 minutes to a smooth, soft, fairly elastic dough.

Gather into a ball on an unfloured surface, return to the bowl, cover and rise in a warm spot 1 to 2 hours, until doubled.

For the filling, melt butter over medium heat with a touch of brown sugar, unsweetened cocoa and a spoon of instant espresso; stir and take off the heat once the butter melts, then cool.

When a poke deflates the dough, turn it out, press out the air, shape back into a ball, bag it and refrigerate overnight.

Stir the cooled filling until the butter thickens into a paste; warm a few seconds in the microwave if made ahead.

Press the cold dough into a rough rectangle, dust both sides with flour, and roll out to about 12 by 18 inches, stretching the corners square.

Spread the filling over the dough, leaving a few inches bare at the far edge, and brush that edge with water.

Roll up fairly tightly without stretching, evening the thickness between center and ends, and finish seam side down.

Mark the log into quarters and each quarter into thirds, then cut 12 pieces with kitchen twine by crossing and pulling.

Set in a generously buttered pan or baking dish in a three by four pattern, with buttered parchment underneath if sticking is a worry.

Cover and proof 1 to 2 hours, until nearly doubled and touching.

Bake in the center of a 375 degree oven about 30 minutes, until puffed and golden at the edges, or about 200 Fahrenheit inside.

Cool 15 minutes; mix powdered sugar with enough coffee or espresso to a pourable icing.

Drizzle the icing over with a spoon; cool to room temperature to serve.