Tsoureki rolls filled with vanilla pastry cream and chocolate

Proof the yeast: combine 1/4 cup milk at 110 to 115F, 1 tbsp sugar, 2 tbsp all purpose flour and 1 tbsp active dried yeast.

Leave 7 to 8 minutes until bubbly and smelling of yeast. If it does not, the yeast is dead and the bread will not rise.

Microwave 3/4 cup milk about 20 seconds to lukewarm.

Whisk 2 tsp pure vanilla extract and 2 eggs into the warm milk and set aside.

Zest two oranges.

Grind whole maklepi fresh in a food processor or a mortar and pestle.

Combine the dry ingredients: 720 g all-purpose or bread flour, 1 tbsp ground maklepi, 1 cup granulated sugar and 1/2 tsp salt.

Add the milk and egg mixture to the proofed yeast, then add the dry ingredients to the mixer. A quarter teaspoon of ground mastic gum may be added here.

Knead on low speed 10 to 12 minutes, then add 2 oz soft unsalted butter and mix 2 minutes more.

Grease a bowl with a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, turn the dough to coat, cover with plastic wrap and rise in the warmest part of the house until doubled. This is a dense dough: four or five hours in a cold house.

Alternatives for the rise: a slow overnight rise in the refrigerator, then come to room temperature before shaping; or run a clothes dryer with clean dry towels 10 minutes, turn it off and put the dough in, for a rise in one and a half to two hours.

For the pastry cream, heat 2 cups whole milk with some of the 3/4 cup sugar and a pinch of salt over medium heat until steaming hot. The sugar keeps the milk from sticking and burning.

In a pitcher whisk the rest of the sugar with 4 egg yolks, 4 tbsp cornstarch and 1/4 cup heavy whipping cream.

Temper the eggs: whisk a little of the hot milk into the egg mixture, then the rest, and return everything to the pot.

Cook over medium heat until it thickens, which happens fast the second it comes to a boil, so do not leave the pot.

Off the heat whisk in 2 tsp pure vanilla extract, transfer to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap against the surface so no skin forms. Cool to room temperature, or make it one or two days ahead and chill it.

Deflate the risen dough and cut it into 12 portions: in half, then each half into six.

Roll each portion into a round and place six on each parchment lined baking tray, spaced apart.

Press an indentation into the centre of each with the fingers, then rise in a warm spot about 30 minutes until puffy.

For the egg wash mix 2 egg yolks with about 2 to 3 tbsp whole milk, or heavy cream, until smooth.

Preheat the oven to 350F; the trays can sit on the stove top above it for the last of the rise.

Press the centres again to open the space for the filling, then brush with egg wash before filling, so the wash stays clean of chocolate.

Spoon about a tablespoonful of pastry cream into the vanilla ones, keeping the spoon off the dough so no raw egg reaches the leftover cream.

Add a little spoonful of preserves to some, optionally, and a few sliced almonds around the cream.

Fill the rest with chocolate hazelnut spread, brush those with egg wash carefully, and add sliced almonds.

Bake at 350F about 25 minutes, until slightly golden at the edges and puffy. Longer gives more colour but a drier roll; the chocolate ones went a little longer for colour.

Cool about 20 minutes.

For the vanilla glaze combine 1 cup sugar, 2 to 3 tbsp whole milk and 1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract, with a splash of almond extract if wanted.

Drizzle the glaze over the cooled rolls, or serve it on the side.