Tsukune (grilled Japanese chicken meatball skewers) with teriyaki glaze

Bone the chicken thighs roughly, scraping meat from the bone with the knife heel; keep the skin.

Cut the meat and skin into rough three-quarter to one inch chunks; save the bones.

Spread the chunks on an aluminum sheet tray, ideally lined with parchment, and freeze until slightly crusty outside but not frozen solid, about five to ten minutes.

Roughly chop the shiso; peel and roughly chop the ginger; prepare the scallions.

Pulse the chicken and seasonings in a food processor with salt and MSG until fine and starting to get sticky and cling to the bowl.

Microwave a tiny piece, about 10 seconds, and taste; adjust salt and add a tiny drizzle of roasted sesame oil. No breadcrumbs, starch or egg white.

Soak the skewers in water so the ends do not burn on the grill.

With oiled hands, shape into meatballs about an inch in diameter and thread three to a skewer.

Lay the skewers on a sheet tray rubbed with sesame oil, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate or freeze until cooking; cook from frozen over lower heat.

Preheat a gas grill over maximum heat, scrape the grates and wipe with a couple of coats of neutral oil; turn one side down to low.

Flatten the meatballs slightly into patties and grill over the hot side, lid closed, for grill marks; flip once.

Move to the cooler side and cook to an internal temperature of at least 175F, up to about 185F, so the fat renders.

Brush with teriyaki sauce, flipping a couple more times and brushing repeatedly to build up layers of glaze.

Serve with a raw egg yolk for dipping, shichimi togarashi on the egg and chicken, sliced scallions and a final coat of sauce.