Twice-cooked French fries from Kennebec potatoes

Peel the potatoes, slice off a flatter side for a stable base and lop off one rounded edge.

Cut into planks about five-eighths of an inch (1.5 cm) thick, then into strips (an 'extra fancy' cut).

In a four-quart container, cover with cold water and agitate to release surface starch; rinse at least three times until the water is no longer milky, then cover with cold water.

Soak in the fridge a minimum of 8 hours, preferably 18 to 36, to draw out starch and firm the potatoes.

Drain, spread on a wire rack over a sheet tray with a triple layer of paper towels, and blot aggressively to remove surface moisture so the oil does not cool and the fries do not turn greasy.

Heat 2 to 3 litres of canola oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot, no more than 60 to 70% full, to about 280F.

Fry half the fries at this low temperature 5 minutes to set the starch and cook them through; lift out, drain and move to the wire rack. Repeat with the second half.

Turn the heat to medium high and bring the oil slowly from 285 to 375F; the fries will drop it to about 360F.

Fry half the fries at a time so they are not crowded, 7 to 10 minutes, until light golden brown and crisp.

Move to a bowl and immediately toss with a huge pinch of salt while still hot and coated in oil.