Ultimate a la vodka sauce

Heat about a quarter cup of neutral oil in a wide shallow pan over medium high until shimmering.

Fry four ounces of diced pancetta three to five minutes until lightly browned and crisp, drain on paper towels and reserve the oil and fond.

In about a quarter cup of the reserved fat, saute the finely diced half onion three to four minutes until soft and translucent.

Crush in two cloves of garlic, add two teaspoons of crushed Calabrian chilies and three tablespoons of sun-dried tomato paste and let them heat about 30 seconds.

Add eight ounces of tomato puree and simmer 30 to 45 minutes until cooked down and concentrated, like a homemade tomato paste.

Get the pasta cooking, then add one ounce of vodka and three ounces of heavy cream when the pasta is nearly done.

Stir, add the pasta, and adjust the consistency with pasta water.

Add a half ounce each of parmesan and pecorino romano, adjusting with pasta water if it gets too gloopy.

Plate with the reserved crispy pancetta, more cheese and an optional smattering of fresh basil or parsley.