Ultimate chocolate chip cookies

Spread 170 g all purpose and 90 g bread flour on a rimmed baking sheet and toast at 350 degrees Fahrenheit about 25 minutes, stirring every five, until golden brown and nutty smelling.

Cool the flour completely before it goes into the dough.

Spread white chocolate out and caramelize it at 275 degrees Fahrenheit for about 45 minutes, stirring every 15.

If it goes chunky rather than smoothing itself out, work it smooth in a food processor; chill it until solid before chopping.

Cream the chilled brown butter with the sugars and two teaspoons of vanilla paste.

Add two large eggs one at a time and scrape down.

Add the toasted flours with a teaspoon of baking soda, kosher salt, a tablespoon of finely ground hazelnut coffee and the buckwheat, and mix to combine.

Age the dough three days in the fridge; more than that gives diminishing returns.

Break the cold dough up into a bowl and mix in the chocolates, keeping it cool; cold dough gives better colour variation.

Sift the toasted flours; unsifted specks of flour stay visible in the dough.

The pan bang trick: take the tray out two minutes early, whack it a few times and return it for the last two minutes, for a wider flatter cookie with channels of chocolate.

Portion and shape the dough. Pre-scooped dough aged overnight dries on the outside, so let the portions warm 15 minutes, crack them open and weld them back together to expose moist dough, which spreads and browns better.

Press a chocolate fev into the top of each.

Bake between 330 and 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 14 minutes total: six minutes, rotate, six more, pan bang, then two minutes to finish.

Sprinkle with finishing salt and cool at least 10 minutes on the tray until solid enough to move.