Vegetable royales (mushroom, cauliflower, broccolini, tomato)

Make the vegetable purees ahead: boil the vegetables in salted water, process with a little butter and let cool. The purees, mushroom duxelles and thick reduced tomato sauce must be cold.

Cut a circle of parchment paper for the bottom of each dariole mold, about eight.

Brush the inside of each mold with softened butter and press the parchment circle onto the bottom until it is glued down and almost transparent, so the royale unmolds easily.

Line a roasting pan with parchment paper for the bain-marie, so simmering bubbles do not splash water into the molds.

Make the custard: for 200 ml cream, mix in two whole eggs.

Variation: the Escoffier style uses one whole egg plus egg yolks instead, giving a yellower, firmer custard.

Season the custard with a good pinch of salt, coarse black pepper and a good grating of fresh nutmeg; mix well.

Mix one portion of puree with one portion of custard, weighed on a scale (for example about 50 g puree with the same of custard); whisk and check it is liquid but not too liquid. Use less puree if it is wet.

Fill the molds with the mixture, not all the way to the top.

Preheat the oven to 150 degrees Celsius.

Set the roasting pan at the oven door and pour boiling water three quarters of the way up, so no water is carried into the molds.

Cook 25 to 30 minutes at 150 degrees Celsius.

Run a knife around the royale and turn it out; the parchment protects the bottom.

Chill until totally cold before unmolding and serving; 10 to 15 minutes in the freezer was not enough for all of them to set. Serve as a cold starter or a garnish for fish, with a sauce on the side.