Vegetarian Vietnamese fresh rice-paper rolls with sauteed mushroom, carrot and tofu, and a peanut-hoisin dipping sauce

Saute the vegetables in olive oil over moderate heat, not too hot.

Start with the mushroom so it takes some colour; season with very little salt, since the sauce is already salty, and a little pepper.

Add the carrots and cook only briefly to keep their texture and freshness.

Fry the tofu in the pan a little at a time, adding more oil, until lightly yellow; drain on paper so it is not oily.

Shred the lettuce.

In the same pan, over gentle heat so it does not burn, make the sauce with peanut butter, hoisin sauce and red bean sauce, loosened with a little water; watch the heat as it turns sticky. The sauce can be made a day or two ahead and chilled.

Moisten the rice paper with a little water (a thicker imported paper may need dipping), without overwetting it or it tears.

Lay on a little lettuce, then the fresh rice noodle, herb leaves, Vietnamese basil, tofu and a little salt; keep the filling to about two bites so the roll does not burst.

Roll, pulling the first turn back tight with the fingers; add spring onion and mint and finish the roll. Do not make them too far ahead.

Top with a little peanut and fresh shallots and serve the pickles on the side.