Velveted pork and cucumber stir-fry

Cut the pork loin into flat pieces, then lengthwise into thin slivers.

Wash the pork, wringing it hard like laundry in a strainer to squeeze out pigment and liquid.

Marinate with sugar, white pepper, light soy sauce, toasted sesame oil, Shaoxing wine and baking soda; add an egg white and cornstarch and mix by hand. Set aside (or refrigerate overnight).

Mix the sauce: light soy sauce, shrimp stock and a little white pepper.

Mix a slurry of 1 tbsp water and 1 tsp cornstarch.

Smash and break up the garlic with a cleaver, slice the ginger, and combine with the pickled chilies in one bowl.

Seed the cucumber, cut into quarter-inch slices, and put in a bowl with the scallions cut into one-inch segments.

Velvet the pork: drop it into a wok of simmering water, break it up with chopsticks, 10 to 20 seconds, then spread on a tray to steam dry.

Heat the wok over high heat until it just smokes, lower slightly, add the fat and swirl.

Add the garlic, ginger and chilies to infuse the oil, about 15 seconds, then add the cucumbers and scallions and toss-fry.

Return the pork, then pour the sauce around the hot sides of the wok so it sizzles.

Add about half the slurry, reduce slightly and add more until the sauce coats in a glossy sheen and only a trickle runs back when the spatula is pulled through.