Wet overnight-refrigerated bread dough (ciabatta-like)

Stir the water, dry yeast, kosher salt and 265 g bread flour together into a 90% hydration dough.

Let it sit and autolyse about 15 minutes so the water breaks down the flour and less kneading is needed.

Stretch and fold with a wet hand, just a few stretches, until the gluten tightens and it stops being stretchable.

Refrigerate overnight to ferment slowly.

Variation: pre-ferment. The night before, mix one quarter (or one half) of the dough as a pre-ferment with about 1/16 tsp yeast and no salt; for a high-yeast pre-ferment use about as much yeast as normal bread. Leave at room temperature overnight.

Variation, next morning: to the pre-ferment add the remaining water, all of the salt and the remaining flour, no more yeast; stir until it comes together, autolyse 15 minutes, stretch and fold, and let rise about two hours, then stretch and fold once more.

Dump the dough onto crumpled parchment paper and proof about half an hour so it bakes up puffy.

Put the loaves in a Dutch oven, score, and bake covered at 500F (260C) for about 40 minutes, until almost done.

Take the lid off for the last 10 minutes or so to brown.

Next morning, stretch and fold the refrigerated dough.