Whipped cream tres leches cake with toasted hazelnuts

Line a 13 by nine inch pan with parchment cut to fit over an oiled bottom, leaving the sides ungreased.

Preheat the oven to 350F.

Mix the all purpose flour, kosher salt, baking powder and three quarters of a teaspoon cinnamon as the dry ingredients.

Whip one and a quarter cups cold heavy cream with a couple teaspoons vanilla to medium peaks, starting slow and increasing speed as it thickens; do not overwhip or it will be hard to fold in.

Crack seven whole eggs into the second bowl, add one cup granulated sugar and beat six to seven minutes until pale and at least doubled, close to ribbon stage.

Sift the dry ingredients in about a third at a time on the lowest speed, mixing quickly and stopping while it is mostly incorporated, and dump the coarse salt straight in rather than through the sieve.

Fold in the chopped hazelnuts and the whipped cream gently until there are no streaks.

Spread the batter into the pan in an even layer.

Bake 30 to 35 minutes until risen, springy to the touch and golden brown; it was done at 28 minutes.

For the soak, combine two cups whole milk, about two cups cream, vanilla extract, a pinch of salt and one cup sweetened condensed milk, about five cups in total.

Whisk the soak until the condensed milk, which settles to the bottom because it is dense, fully dissolves.

Turn the sponge out upside down onto a wire rack and cool it that way so it keeps its volume; the whole cake is served upside down.

Once the sponge is fully cooled, poke holes all over, pressing down until you hit the pan.

Pour the soak on slowly in stages, poking more holes, until all of it is in; it will pool on top.

Cover and chill at least three hours so the soak absorbs and evens out through any dry areas.

Whip the remaining two cups of cold cream, unsweetened, to very soft droopy peaks.

Cut down and around the sides, invert, tap the counter and let gravity release the cake, then peel off the parchment.

Cover just the top with the whipped cream, worked into texture.

Finish with the reserved chopped hazelnuts in patches and pinches of cinnamon.