Whole grilled branzino with grilled lemons

Set the cleaned fish on a rimmed baking sheet, pat dry inside and out, and coat generously with neutral oil so it browns and does not stick.

Season lightly inside and out with kosher salt from a dedicated salt bowl. Optionally cut two shallow Xs into both sides.

Stuff the cavity with a sprig of rosemary, a sprig of thyme and lemon slices.

Preheat the grill on high 10 minutes, scrape the grates with a stiff grill brush, lower the flames and wipe the grates with vegetable oil on a rag or paper towel.

Close the lid and let the oil bake on about 5 minutes; repeat one to five coats until the grates are evenly black and glossy and the rag skates across.

Turn the left burners to high and the right to low. Sear the fish 1 to 3 minutes per side on the hot side with the lid shut; it will not release until a crispy crust forms.

Flip gently with a fish spatula and tongs and cook, lid shut, another 3 minutes.

Lower the left side and raise the right for indirect heat; move the fish toward the front, since the back runs hotter.

Grill the oiled lemon halves cut side down on the hot side, giving a half turn after a minute, until they have grill marks.

Take the fish off when the thickest point by the gills reads 135F; rest 5 minutes.

Cut shallowly along the spine, around the gills and at the base of the tail; slide a thin fish spatula between the top filet and the bones and lift it onto a platter skin side up, removing stuck herbs or lemon.

Lift the spine out by the tail, check the filet for pin bones and pull them, and trim off the charred dorsal fin.

Plate with more fresh rosemary and thyme and the charred lemon halves.