Whole-pineapple tepache

Cut the top and bottom off a ripe pineapple, then cut off the outside.

Cut the flesh into smaller pieces and put peel and flesh into a glass barrel.

Crush the pieces with a muddler to release some juice.

Bring a couple quarts of water to a low simmer.

Microwave the piloncillo cone 45 seconds in a microwave-safe bowl to soften it, break it up with a spatula and dissolve it in the hot water with the Mexican cinnamon (a whole cone takes 20 to 30 minutes to dissolve).

Cool to room temperature, then pour over the pineapple.

Ferment in a warm place, about 80 degrees ideally, covered against fruit flies but with some air, for four to six days. If no fermentation starts within a couple of days, add a starter such as kombucha starter or wine yeast.

Taste at four days; let it go another day or two for more funk, stopping while some fruitiness remains.

Pour off into a pitcher, then strain the rest.

Serve over ice.

Variation: add an ounce and a half of aged tequila for a tepache cocktail.