Whole salmon cooked upright over charcoal with hot honey butter sauce

Use a gutted, scaled whole salmon; set it upright on the grate in its swimming orientation, with skewers underneath if needed, so neither side cooks faster. Do not season it.

Bring the drum to 350 degrees on lump charcoal only, no wood; put the salmon on and close it.

Cook until the thickest, coolest part in the center reads 145F, about 90 minutes in all.

Remove the whole grate and let the fish rest briefly.

Melt about half a stick of butter with hot honey and some all-purpose seasoning into a cohesive sauce, making sure there is enough salt.

Cut behind the gills, up to the top and along the spine, and peel all the skin back.

Pour the sauce over and paint it around to cover, or brush it on with a silicone brush. Pull the flesh off the bones by hand.