Wild blueberry lemon crumb cakes

Thaw the wild blueberries in a strainer set over a bowl so excess moisture drips through.

For the crumb topping, mash soft butter with a big pinch of salt, all-purpose flour, white sugar and a little brown sugar with the back of a spoon until evenly combined; refrigerate until cold and firm.

Put white sugar and a little brown sugar in a mixing bowl, grate in at least two tablespoons of lemon zest, mix, and let sit 20 to 30 minutes so the sugar draws out the lemon oils (oleo saccharum).

Whisk all-purpose flour with salt, baking powder and a little baking soda; set aside.

Crumble the cold crumb mixture into fairly uniform crumbs; return to the fridge unless using right away.

Add a stick of soft butter to the lemon sugar and cream with a hand mixer, slow at first, then high until light and fluffy.

Beat in two eggs one at a time, each fully incorporated and emulsified before the next, so the butter does not separate.

Add vanilla extract, a couple tablespoons of plain yogurt and a quarter cup of lemon juice; mix only a few seconds.

Add the dry ingredients and mix just until the flour disappears; scrape down the sides with a spatula.

Divide the batter among 12 paper-lined muffin cups, one big spoon each, then the remainder evenly.

Top each with one heaping teaspoon of thawed blueberries, pressed lightly into the center.

Top each with a heaping tablespoon of crumbs, then distribute the remainder evenly.

Bake in the center of a 375 degree oven about 25 minutes, until the topping is golden brown and a skewer or toothpick comes out clean.

Cool 10 to 15 minutes in the pan, lift out with a fork to a cooling rack, and cool to room temperature before serving.