Wild grape curd tart

Wash and pick the grapes, choosing the darkest, ripest ones.

Peel the grapes: pinch at the stem opening so the pulp pops out of the skin. Keep the skins, which hold the flavour.

Cook the pulp in a saucepan just until it breaks down and the seeds separate.

Press pâte brisée into the tart pan and chill about an hour; longer is better.

Blind bake the crust with pie weights to keep the bottom from puffing and the sides strong.

Strain the cooked pulp through a sieve back onto the skins, scraping the bottom of the sieve.

Add about a quarter cup of lemon juice and about half of the 3/4 cup sugar; warm on the stove to barely a simmer.

Whisk four large egg yolks vigorously with the rest of the sugar until pale; do not do this far in advance or hardened bits of yolk form.

Temper: slowly pour in the hot grape mixture while whisking; after two thirds to three quarters is in, whisk it all back into the saucepan.

Cook, stirring constantly with a spatula, until it coats the back of a spoon and thickens, about 180F.

Off the heat, stir in a stick of butter in pieces and a teaspoon or two of vanilla extract until melted.

Optionally blend the curd in the pan with a hand blender, puréeing the skins for a smooth, vivid colour.

After about 20 minutes with the weights, remove them and bake the crust uncovered about 10 minutes more, until fully baked and just barely golden, at 325F.

Whisk the curd smooth again if a skin has formed and pour it into the hot crust, which sets the bottom layer fast so it does not go soggy.

Bake at 325F about 15 to 20 minutes, checking at 15.

Chill to set.