Wood-fired everything bagels with rye

The afternoon before baking, put the bread flour and rye flour in the stand mixer bowl (or a large bowl by hand); mix in the salt and a teaspoon of instant yeast.

Make a well and add 480 g of lukewarm water, a little above room temperature to land the dough near 70 to 75 degrees.

Mix with the dough hook on the lowest speed until smooth and supple, at least 5 to 10 minutes.

Knead by hand without added flour until very firm and springy, rocking the body and pushing with the heel of the hand.

Dust with flour, return to the bowl, cover and leave at room temperature until 50% expanded to not quite doubled, one to two hours; then refrigerate overnight.

Next morning, turn out and portion into about four-ounce pieces (eleven here).

Pre-shape into smooth balls, pinch side down, rolled under a cupped hand; cover and bench rest 15 minutes.

Shape: poke a hole and stretch to a ring about four inches across with a hole of at least two inches, or roll a tapered log, wrap it around the palm overlapping the ends and roll to seal. Flatten slightly.

Set on parchment-lined sheet trays with a little oil and coarse cornmeal; cover with oiled plastic wrap and proof at room temperature.

Heat the oven to 500; at home 500, or 475 if it does not go that high.

Stir barley malt syrup into the water until it is the colour of strong black tea, about three tablespoons, and bring to a boil.

Float test a bagel: if it floats it is proofed. Refrigerate the bagels if the oven is not ready.

Boil as many as fit with room to bob, about 45 seconds per side (30 to 45).

Drain briefly on a damp paper towel, dip in the everything spice mix and return to the sheet tray.

Bake, rotating after about eight minutes, about 15 minutes total until deep golden.

Cool; slice and serve fresh with cream cheese.