Wood-oven lamb leg with pasilla negro and black olive sauce

Open the pasilla negro chilies, shake out the seeds and pull out the veins.

Toast the chilies in a skillet over medium, pressing each side down for a few seconds until fragrant and slightly changed in colour, with no more than a whisper of smoke.

Cover with hot tap water and rehydrate about 30 minutes until pliable.

Blend the chilies with some of the soaking liquid, the black olives, a pinch of cumin, Mexican oregano, black peppercorns crushed in the molcajete, and roasted garlic, to a smooth puree.

Strain the puree to catch stray seeds and skin.

Heat a pot over medium-high until very hot, add a little olive oil, then the puree so it sizzles; cook, stirring, until reduced to the consistency of tomato paste.

Add red wine, water and a sprinkling of salt and simmer about 45 minutes.

Get the fire in the brick oven very hot. Break the saddle into two legs, debone them, salt well on both sides and roast in the hot oven.

Melt a few pieces of piloncillo into a little of the chili sauce and glaze the lamb; return it to the oven to finish.

Slice the lamb, ladle sauce onto the plate, top with the meat, olives and fresh lemon zest; serve with a watercress salad and the vegetable budin.