Yeasted donuts with vanilla creme patissiere, raspberry jam and chocolate glaze

Bloom the yeast in milk heated to 120 degrees and left to come down to 110, with a teaspoon of sugar to feed it.

Add one packet, two and a quarter teaspoons, of active dry yeast.

Whisk together 350 g all-purpose flour, 75 g white sugar and one teaspoon of table salt.

Add three large egg yolks and the milk and yeast mixture, which has bloomed foamy after ten minutes, and bring it together with a wooden spoon or by hand.

Mix until the dough forms a single shaggy mass, then turn out onto a lightly floured countertop and knead for no fewer and no greater than eight minutes, to a ball of smooth supple dough.

Cover in an oiled bowl and rise about one hour, until doubled in size.

For the creme patissiere whisk three large egg yolks, one whole egg, 85 g sugar and about 30 g cornstarch until smooth and creamy.

Add a dab of vanilla paste to a smooth ribbony mixture, then pour in two cups of almost boiling milk slowly, especially for the first half, to temper the eggs and keep them from scrambling.

Return the mixture to the saucepan over medium-low and whisk constantly until nice and thick, about five minutes.

Transfer to a bowl and press plastic wrap directly onto the surface so no skin forms. Refrigerate at least two hours until completely chilled.

Turn the risen dough out onto a lightly floured surface and roll it out to about half an inch thick.

Cut donut-sized rounds with a flour-dusted biscuit cutter and place them on a well-floured rimmed baking sheet. Dough scraps can be re-used but yield misshapen donuts.

Cover and let rise a second and final time for 45 minutes, until puffed up a bit.

Heat vegetable oil in a cast-iron skillet to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

Drop the donuts in; they should float immediately. About 45 seconds to a minute a side, flipping once.

Remove and drain on a wire rack. Coat half of them in sugar while still warm and leave the rest plain.

For the chocolate glaze whisk four ounces of chopped chocolate with a quarter cup of steaming whole milk, a shot of instant espresso powder and a couple of tablespoons of cornstarch.

Stand a piping bag in a tall drinking glass, fill it with the chilled creme patissiere, cut a little entry point in each donut with a paring knife and fill them.

Dunk the tops of the cream-filled donuts in the chocolate glaze and let it harden for about 20 minutes.

Fill the sugar-coated donuts with seedless raspberry jam the same way: poke a hole and squeeze it in.