Yen ta fo (pink noodle soup)

Sauce: combine four cubes of red bean curd with some of its liquid, sriracha, garlic, white vinegar, white sugar, a little fish sauce and, optionally, Thai chilies.

Blitz the sauce smooth.

Simmer the sauce a few minutes to cook the garlic and chilies.

Fried garlic: chop garlic and fry it low and slow with gentle bubbles until golden brown.

Broth: season unsalted pork stock with soy sauce, a little salt (so the broth does not turn dark from soy alone) and a little sugar; it should taste well seasoned but mild.

Blanch the fresh rice noodles briefly in water below a rolling boil, just to heat them, since they overcook easily; put them in the bowl.

Blanch the fish balls a few seconds to heat (longer if cold or frozen) and the tofu puffs to wash off their oil.

Blanch the spinach, shaking off as much water as possible.

Dress with yentafo sauce, about a tablespoon per bowl to start, then garlic oil and fried garlic.

Pour over the broth, top with cilantro and fried wontons, and mix until the broth turns pink.