Yibin ran mian, Sichuan flaming noodles

Dissolve the soda ash and salt in the water, pour it into the bread flour little by little while mixing.

Knead ten minutes on low with the dough hook, or by hand; the low-hydration dough stays in small pieces, so press them together.

Divide into three even pieces and flatten each.

Run each piece through the roller on the thickest setting, folding and re-feeding until the sheet is smooth, then step the thickness down to level 4.

Dust generously with cornstarch, cut on the noodle cutter, toss the noodles in more cornstarch and shake off the excess.

For the seasoned sweet soy sauce, combine light soy sauce, water, brown sugar, shiitake, ginger, shallot, scallion and cilantro with the cinnamon, star anise, bay leaf, fennel seed, white pepper and Sichuan peppercorns.

Bring to a boil, drop to low and simmer uncovered 20 to 30 minutes until more than half the liquid has gone and the texture is slightly thick.

Strain; it keeps half a year in the fridge in a sealed container.

For the chili oil, heat the vegetable oil over medium with the aromatics and spices until they are charred and golden, then lift them out.

Combine Sichuan peppercorn powder, mild and spicy chili powders, sesame seeds, salt and black vinegar in a heatproof bowl.

Optional: dip the zi cao in the hot oil in a sieve for 20 to 30 seconds to colour it.

Pour the hot oil onto the chili flakes in batches, stirring well.

Bake the walnuts and peanuts at 350F for 14 minutes and the sesame seeds for 12, cool, then blend to a rough powder.

Dry-fry the ya cai in a bare wok over medium heat until some of the moisture has gone.

Press the garlic, stir it into the water, and dice the scallions and cilantro as fine as possible.

Boil the fresh noodles a couple of minutes to al dente, take them out and shake them well so they do not reabsorb water.

Dress the noodles with chili oil, seasoned sweet soy sauce, garlic water, nut powder, cilantro, scallion and ya cai, and mix.

For the soup served alongside, bring chicken stock to a boil, add bean sprouts and seaweed and season with salt and black pepper.