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Chapter 34 · Cakes and icings

34.2 Egg-foam cakes: sponge, angel food, chiffon

How an egg foam forms and how to whip whites are taught with eggs. see chapter 15: Foams: meringue, soufflé, puffy omelet

Egg whites pass through five stages as you beat them.

  • foamy
  • soft peak
  • upper soft peak
  • stiff peak
  • dry
Figure 34.3Five stages of beaten egg white
the soft peak stage angel, sponge and lemon chiffon cakes: whites beaten to its top 1 2 3 4 5 FoamySoft peakUpper soft peakStiff peakDry
Egg whites pass through five stages as they are beaten. Angel, sponge and lemon chiffon cakes all use whites beaten to the top of the soft peak stage.

Angel cake

Angel cake uses whites only, with cake flour, sugar, salt and flavorings.

  • Sift the flour, salt and half the sugar together three times.
  • Beat the whites with cream of tartar until soft peaks are just starting. Add vanilla and almond extract.
  • Add the rest of the sugar slowly, 2 teaspoons at a time, and beat to the top end of the soft peak stage.
  • Sift a quarter of the flour mix over the meringue and fold it in gently, stopping as soon as the flour vanishes. Do this four times in all.
  • Push the batter gently into an ungreased pan. Bake at 375°F for about 25 minutes, until it springs back from a light touch.
  • Turn the pan upside down and let the cake hang until cool. Slice it with a serrated knife.

Sponge cake

▶ Lecture

Sponge cake uses both yolks and whites, and the sugar is split into three equal parts.

  • Separate the eggs. Sift the flour with one part of the sugar three times.
  • Beat the yolks with lemon zest, lemon extract, salt and cold water until very thick and lemon-colored. Beat in the second part of the sugar until the mix mounds.
  • Beat the whites with cream of tartar until soft peaks begin. Add the last part of the sugar slowly and beat to the top of the soft peak stage.
  • Sift the flour over the yolks a quarter at a time, folding gently after each. Spread this over the whites and fold until blended.
  • Pour into an ungreased pan and bake at 375°F for about 20 minutes. Hang upside down to cool, and cut with a serrated knife.

Lemon chiffon cake

▶ Lecture

Chiffon brings in oil and baking powder, and it uses all-purpose flour.

  • Sift flour, a little sugar, baking powder and salt into a bowl, and make a well in the middle.
  • Add oil, yolk, water, vanilla and lemon zest in that order, and beat smooth with a wooden spoon.
  • Whip the whites with cream of tartar to the start of soft peaks, add sugar slowly, and beat to the top of the soft peak stage.
  • Fold the flour mixture into the meringue. Bake in an ungreased pan at 350°F for about 25 to 30 minutes, until it springs back. Hang upside down to cool and slice with a serrated knife.

What a good foam cake looks like

Angel cakeSponge and chiffon cakes
OutsideDark golden brown crust; top flat or slightly rounded, may crackGolden brown; top flat or slightly rounded, may crack; even color throughout
VolumeAbout 1½ times the batterAbout 1½ times the batter
GrainSmall to medium air cells with thin wallsEven, small air cells with thin walls
EatingTender and moistTender, a little springy, moist, delicate flavor
Figure 34.4Three foam cakes
Angel cakeSponge cakeLemon chiffon cake whites only; cake flouryolks and whites; sugar in 3 partsoil, baking powder; all-purpose flour 375°F375°F350°F about 25 minabout 20 min about 25–30 min 0 min102030 All three: an ungreased pan · hung upside down to cool · a serrated knife · about 1½ times the batter
Angel cake uses whites only, sponge cake uses yolks and whites, and lemon chiffon adds oil and baking powder. All three bake in an ungreased pan and hang upside down to cool.

When a foam cake goes wrong

These faults show up in foam cakes, each with its usual causes.

FaultLikely causes
Low volume (any foam cake)A trace of fat; sugar added too early or too fast; poor-quality or small eggs; beating too slowly
Angel cake: low volume, tough, gummy, thick cell wallsWhites underbeaten; too much folding or mixing
Angel cake: streaksSugar or flour added in too large an amount at one time; not folded enough
Angel cake: yellow, coarse, toughToo little cream of tartar
Angel cake: low volume, tough, packed tightFolded too much
Angel cake: fallen, sugary, dryToo much sugar
Angel cake: shrunkenFat in the pan; under- or badly over-baked; pan not turned upside down; badly overmixed
Angel cake: falls out of the panUnderbaked; traces of fat in the pan
Angel cake: holes and tunnelsNot folded enough; batter not pushed against the pan; whites overbeaten
Angel cake: dry and toughOverbaked
Chiffon or sponge: low volumeWhites overbeaten; folded too much
Chiffon or sponge: thick cell walls, layersWhites or yolks underbeaten; not folded enough
Chiffon or sponge: toughToo little liquid; folded too much
Chiffon or sponge: soggyToo much liquid

A little shrinking from the cake's highest point in the oven is normal.

Sources

This chapter is written from these open textbooks:

  • Introduction to Baking and Pastries — Rink & Thibodeaux, Chef John Folse Culinary Institute, Nicholls StateCC BY-NC-SA 4.0
  • Basic Scientific Food Preparation Lab Manual — Dept. of Food Science and Human Nutrition, Iowa State UniversityCC BY-NC-SA 4.0
  • Food Safety, Sanitation and Personal Hygiene — BC Cook Articulation Committee, BCcampusCC BY 4.0