9.2 Steaming

Hotter than poaching, but gentle

Water turns to steam once it goes past 212°F, so steamed food cooks at a higher temperature than food that is poached, braised or stewed. Steaming is still gentle in one way. In boiling or simmering water, food is pushed about; in steam it sits still. That makes steam a good choice for delicate food such as seafood.

Steaming has two more advantages. The food is not under water, so fewer nutrients leach out into the liquid. And it cooks fairly quickly.

Steam, like water, normally tops out at 212°F. Put it under pressure and it gets hotter; the more pressure, the higher the temperature. Cooking with pressurized steam needs special equipment that a beginner usually does not have.

How to steam

On the stove you need only a pot and a steamer basket.

• Pour a little liquid into the pot and bring it to a simmer.
• Set the food in the basket above the liquid.
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• Cover the pot. The steam moves around the food and cooks it fast.
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A microwave can steam too. Put the food in a microwave-safe dish, sprinkle it with water or another liquid, and cover it with plastic wrap pierced with a few small holes. A few minutes is usually enough. Microwave steamer baskets are also sold for cooks who steam this way often.

Steaming vegetables

Steamed vegetables earned a poor name in two ways. Some were served with no seasoning and tasted of nothing. Others were cooked far too long and turned into dark, flavorless mush. Season them, and take them off the heat in time.

Done well, steaming suits many vegetables, potatoes included. Broccoli and cauliflower can go soggy when simmered, so steam is a better choice for them.

Steam also works as a first step before another method.

• Steam broccoli briefly before it goes into a fast stir-fry, and it will end up crisp-tender.
• Steam potatoes before you slice and grill them, and the grilling takes much less time.

Steaming fish and shellfish

Seafood takes especially well to steam. In a compartment steamer, the liquid underneath can carry flavor: use broth, stock or wine, with aromatic herbs, and keep it at a gentle simmer. The moist air in the steamer keeps fish juicy and tender.

Some shellfish make their own steam. Put mussels in a big covered pot with only a little wine. As the pot heats, the mussels release juice, cook in its steam, and the juice mixes with the wine to make a sauce.

En papillote

En papillote is French for "in paper". The food, often fish, is sealed in a parcel of parchment paper or foil with a little liquid such as wine. Lemon, herbs or thin slices of vegetable can go in too. The parcel is heated in the oven or on a grill, and the food cooks in the steam trapped inside.

Steam and health