Argentine asado (mixed grill over embers with chimichurri and salsa criolla)

Keep the grate about six inches (15 cm) above the embers; control heat by adding or removing coals or raising and lowering the grate. Test with the hand: a count of four is high heat.

Build the fire in the firebox with wood chips or branches, then lump charcoal or firewood; wait 30 to 40 minutes for coals and embers.

Spread a first batch of red embers evenly under the grate to warm the grill and fire bricks, fewer next to the firebox; add a second batch about 10 minutes later.

Do not trim fat, bone or membrane before cooking; they protect the meat.

Put the beef ribs on bone side first over the hottest spot; put the mollejas on.

Put the tri-tip on with the fattiest side toward the fire; add the sausages, then the chinchulines.

Warm the morcilla, already cooked, over the lowest heat; add the matambrito.

Season on the grill with coarse salt; put lemon on the chinchulines.

Keep the firebox stocked so new embers are always ready; spread more coals as the heat drops and put out flare-ups by smothering them or shovelling out the burning ash and fat.

For salsa criolla, chop bell peppers, the firm part of three tomatoes and one onion in equal parts; add olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper to taste.

For chimichurri, mix one part dry chimichurri mix with one part vinegar, let the herbs absorb it 5 to 10 minutes, then add oil.

Flip the meats once they are well coloured; turn the beef ribs once the meat pulls back from the bone.

Heat the proboletera over the hottest part of the grill and cook the provolone in it; top with chimichurri.

Toast bread on the grill.

After flipping the mollejas and chinchulines, once a crust has formed, add lemon juice.

For choripan, butterfly the sausage, set it in the toasted bun and spoon over chimichurri.

Open the morcilla onto toasted bread.

Take the tri-tip off after about an hour and a half, judging doneness by feel (it read 126 to 135 inside); rest 10 minutes, then cut against the grain.

Cook the Iberico matambrito longer, to the crisp side, so its intramuscular fat renders.

Take the beef ribs off, pull off the membrane and serve hot with chimichurri or salsa criolla.