Basic white rice, with techniques to upgrade it

Put the rice in a pot with salt and cover with 1.5 cm of water; let the water boil off covered, then steam 20 minutes until cooked.

Variation: wash the rice at least twice, or until the water runs clear for really fluffy grains; unwashed rice cooks stickier.

Variation: for separate grains, fry the washed rice in fat (equal parts butter and oil) until fragrant, about 60 to 90 seconds.

Variation: fry spices in the fat before the rice (cardamom, cloves, bay leaves, cinnamon; or chillies, cumin and garlic for a spicy rice; turmeric or paprika for colour).

Variation: saute diced onions until softened or browned, or tomatoes or quick-cooking vegetables, or add pre-fried vegetables, their oil, leftover shallot oil, cooked chicken or fatty mince.

Variation: fry vermicelli until golden, then add the rice, fry, and cook as normal; or use orzo, or add canned chickpeas.

Keep the water level for additions that absorb water; reduce it slightly for wet vegetables or meat.

Variation: cook the rice in stock instead of water, or replace some of the water with lemon juice.

Fluff the cooked rice with a fork, scraping one layer at a time, then steam a few more minutes with the lid closed.

Variation: parboil long grain rice a few minutes in plenty of boiling salted water until al dente, drain, pile into a pyramid, poke steam vents, cover the lid with a cloth and steam 40 minutes.

Variation: steep saffron or other coloured spices in hot water, mix with some cooked rice, and layer over plain rice for two-tone rice.

Garnish: fry pine nuts or almonds 30 to 60 seconds until golden; steep raisins and sultanas in boiling water about 15 minutes and sprinkle over; or add cooked meat, herbs or pomegranate seeds.