Beef massaman curry

Open an unshaken can of full fat coconut milk and spoon off most of the cream on top.

Cook the cream until the water-based liquid evaporates, the fat breaks and the solids brown with a nutty aroma.

Cut the beef chuck into thick chunks, about two inches wide, in a few long strips; do not brown it first.

Fry about four ounces of curry paste in the broken coconut fat until it smells toasted.

Add the meat and stir to coat it in the paste without browning it much.

Add the rest of the coconut milk, rinsing the can with water; bring up to a simmer.

Lower to a bare simmer and add a couple tablespoons of shrimp paste.

Mostly cover, checking that the meat stays mostly submerged; skim excessive scum.

Simmer the meat about two hours; if needed, shut it off and hold it at 145 degrees.

When the meat is 30 to 45 minutes from done, add the chunked onion and potatoes, covered by the liquid; bring back to a simmer.

Season with a chunk of roughly chopped rock sugar, a couple tablespoons of fish sauce and lemon in place of tamarind.

Add about half a cup of peanuts to soften and braise with the vegetables; simmer about half an hour until everything is tender.

Check the potatoes with a cake tester for no resistance and a chunk of meat that holds its shape but pulls apart.

Serve with rice, or chill overnight and reheat; it thickens a little and the flavour improves.