Bolognese sauce with fresh pappardelle

Optional stock: roast about three pounds of chicken wings in a 400F oven until deeply browned.

Combine in a pot with celery, carrots, onion, turnip, ginger, a halved head of garlic and any other aromatics.

Hold just shy of a simmer, about 205F, for at least four hours and up to 24. Portion and freeze what is not used.

Finely mince the onion; peel and finely chop the carrots; finely chop the celery. Set aside.

Brown the beef, pork and lamb in olive oil over medium heat, 3 to 5 minutes, and remove with a slotted spoon, reserving the rendered fat.

Saute the onions in the fat 2 to 3 minutes until translucent at the edges and soft.

Render the pancetta until crisp and browned, in a separate saute pan if the fond in the pot starts to burn.

Continue sauteing the onions with the carrot and celery until soft; add the crisp pancetta, fat and all.

Add the tomato paste and let it caramelize about two minutes.

Add the white wine, scraping up the bottom of the pot, and simmer about five minutes until almost fully evaporated.

Return the browned meats and stir.

Ladle in chicken stock until just submerged; add the milk, bay leaf, Parmesan rinds and a generous grating of nutmeg.

Simmer on the stovetop, or cook in a 300F oven for three to four hours.

For the pasta, make a well in the flour, crack in the eggs, add kosher salt and beat with a fork, drawing in flour until too thick to beat.

Bring together with a bench scraper and hands into a wet, soft dough and knead 5 to 7 minutes until soft, cohesive and springing back when poked.

Wrap in plastic wrap and rest at room temperature about 30 minutes.

Cut into four pieces, keeping them wrapped. Laminate: roll a little by hand, pass through the roller on its widest setting, fold in thirds and repeat up to three times.

Roll thinner one notch at a time, halving the sheet around notch four, down to the thinnest setting.

Fold the sheet accordion style without overlapping, slice lengthwise into half-inch strips, coat in flour, twist into nests and set on a well-floured rimmed baking sheet.

Skim off as much fat as possible, remove the bay leaf, and season with Parmesan, kosher salt and black pepper.

Optionally stir in the heavy cream until emulsified and creamy; taste again.

Cook the pasta about 45 seconds of its 60, then toss in a saute pan of sauce with a quarter cup of pasta water over medium low heat until the sauce is absorbed and emulsified and the pasta is cooked.

Serve in a bowl topped with extra sauce and grated Parmesan.