Broiled chicken cacciatore with cauliflower mash

Use a big, wide roasting tray that is not aluminum; the tomato acid can dissolve metal from an aluminum pan.

Cut the stem end out of the tomatoes and halve them; add to the tray.

Halve the bell peppers and tear out stems, seeds and ribs into the tray with the halves.

Halve and peel the shallots, trim the tips and shave the roots without cutting deep, so the layers hold together.

Start the broiler heating.

Trim the garlic cloves and smash them lightly with the side of the knife.

Add the chicken thighs. Drizzle with olive oil, season every surface with pepper and salt, and toss to coat.

Turn all vegetables cut side down, skins up, spaced out; tuck the garlic under the chicken so it does not burn.

Broil on a rack near the top, about an hour, checking frequently.

Cut the cauliflower into small chunks, put in a pot, fill about halfway with water, cover and cook on high heat.

Let the vegetable skins burn; keep the chicken and garlic from burning.

Peel and chop the garlic for the cauliflower. Test the cauliflower with a fork; it must be really soft.

Take the peppers out when just barely cooked. Flip the chicken to color the other side.

Add capers lifted from their brine and a big shot of balsamic vinegar; return under the broiler.

Drain the soft cauliflower in a strainer.

Brown a big knob of butter in the empty pot until nutty, add the garlic, turn the heat right down and cook until softened.

Return the cauliflower, stir, and add only a tiny splash of milk or buttermilk.

If the chicken is getting too much dry heat, add water to the pan or put tomatoes on top of it.

Puree the cauliflower with an immersion blender, grate in cheese before tasting, then season with pepper and a little salt. Keep covered on warm.

When the chicken feels soft enough to pull apart, take the tray out and lift the burnt skins off the tomatoes and shallots.

Push the chicken aside and mash the tomatoes, shallots and garlic into a sauce with a wooden spoon, scraping up the fond.

Return the chicken, cover with sauce, and simmer on low heat on the burner under that side of the tray.

Peel the blackened skin off the peppers, cut into big strips, and gently reheat them in the pan.

Tear in fresh sage.

Plate mashed cauliflower, a chicken thigh, peppers and sauce; finish with a little fresh thyme.