California burrito with soy-garlic skirt steak, homemade fries, garlicky white sauce, cilantro sauce and guacamole

Trim most of the fat from the skirt steak.

In a zip-top bag combine about half a cup of soy sauce, three big cloves of garlic and about a tablespoon of coarse black pepper; mush to combine.

Add the steak, press out most of the air, seal, and massage to coat. Refrigerate a few hours, or leave out if cooking within half an hour.

Peel the potatoes, cut into even planks and then fries, dropping them straight into a bowl of water so they do not brown and so excess starch comes off.

White sauce: mix sour cream, mayo, three cloves of garlic, the juice of one lime, a little cumin, about a tablespoon of Cholula, salt and pepper; thin with a little milk if needed.

Cilantro sauce: in a food processor, a head of cilantro with stems, about a third of a cup of olive oil, more garlic, another lime and about half a teaspoon of red pepper flakes. Blend, scrape down, blend again.

Guacamole: break up the avocado, leaving it chunky; add half a lime's worth of juice, salt, pepper, minced chipotle pepper, diced onion, diced tomato and a little cilantro, and mix.

Dry the potatoes and fry a couple of handfuls at about 335 to 340 until just beginning to colour. Lift out and raise the oil to 370.

Grill the steak on a very hot grill about three minutes a side, keeping it medium rare, spooning a little extra marinade on top.

Fry the fries a second time, in the oil raised to 370, while the steak cooks.

Rest the steak. Lift out the fries, let the oil drip, and salt them with kosher salt right away so it sticks.

Slice the steak against the grain, first shortening the strips, into thin bites; it reads about 131 degrees, medium rare.

On a warm tortilla layer the steak, Monterey Jack melted over it, cilantro sauce, white sauce, guacamole and a hand pile of fries.

Fold in the sides, bring the top over, pull it toward you and roll. Cut in half.