Cantonese pork brain omelette

Remove the thin outer membrane of the brain with a needle, starting from a blood vessel; working in a bowl of water helps.

Mix the brain with two tablespoons rice wine, half a teaspoon salt, a couple of scallion sprigs torn into two inch sections and about two inches of roughly chopped ginger.

Steam the bowl on a rack over boiling water, covered, on high for twenty minutes.

Drain thoroughly in a strainer, pick out the ginger and scallions, and break the brain into bite-sized pieces with chopsticks.

To four large eggs add three-quarters teaspoon salt, half a tablespoon sugar, an eighth teaspoon MSG, half a teaspoon white pepper, a teaspoon toasted sesame oil and a slurry of half a tablespoon each cornstarch and water; the slurry keeps the egg from going rubbery.

Beat until no strands of white remain, then combine with the steamed brain.

Heat the wok piping hot, shut off the heat, add about three tablespoons oil and swirl; heat on medium until bubbles form around chopsticks, about 160C.

Add the egg and push the center out gently to bring uncooked egg to the hot center.

After about a minute and a half, cut the egg into four pieces so uncooked egg runs into the cracks; after about another minute, at about 80% set, flip each quarter.

Tilt the wok so each piece cooks evenly; after about another 90 seconds turn off the heat. Optionally garnish with cilantro.