Charcoal-grilled skirt steak tacos

Squeeze about three tablespoons of lime juice into a small bowl.

Grate garlic finely on a microplane into the lime juice, going slowly at the end.

Grind whole black pepper and cumin (with oregano) to a fine powder in a molcajete and brush it into the marinade.

Add half a teaspoon of salt, a splash of Worcestershire sauce and a couple of tablespoons of olive oil; mix.

Coat the outside skirt steak with the marinade, turning with tongs, and leave one hour; longer takes the red out of the meat.

Build a medium-high charcoal fire. Spray the steak with oil, brush off excess marinade and lay it on the grill; spray the top.

Grill about three to four minutes a side to medium, leaving it in place until good grill marks form before prying it free.

Take off the thinner piece first; rest the steak on a rack so it reabsorbs its juices.

Scoop the avocado flesh into a bowl and mash coarsely five to seven times with a potato masher; season with a scant teaspoon of salt and about a tablespoon of lime, and taste; it should be a little salty.

Cut the steak into about three inch segments, turn 90 degrees and slice across the grain into quarter inch strips.

Sprinkle with a finishing salt such as Maldon.

Lay a fresh corn tortilla, sprinkle with Maldon salt, add skirt steak, a dollop of seasoned mashed avocado and a spoonful of pico de gallo.