Chicken bacon avocado ranch street chalupas with roasted spatchcocked chicken and fried cheese-crusted shells

Mix salt with about half as much coarse black pepper, a little garlic powder and smoked paprika.

Dry a five-pound chicken well inside and out with paper towels.

Spatchcock the chicken: remove the backbone (save for soup), flip and flatten. Set on a rack, coat lightly with mayo and season all over.

Roast at 425 degrees about 45 minutes, until the thickest part of the breast is 160; it rises a little after coming out. Cook bacon on a rack in the same oven until crisp.

Mix all-purpose flour, baking powder, kosher salt and sugar, add warmed milk and a little neutral oil, and knead two and a half to three minutes until soft and smooth, adding flour if sticky.

Cover with a towel and leave about half an hour.

Pico: dice white onion, finely dice jalapeno, dice a tomato without the wet inside, add chopped cilantro, salt, pepper and a squeeze of lime juice; mix and set aside.

Avocado ranch: blend a ripe avocado with sour cream, a little mayo, lime juice, minced garlic, chopped cilantro, chopped fresh dill, salt and pepper, adding milk to the thickness wanted.

Pull and shred the chicken into nice pieces; pulled at 160 it rises to about 165, and pulling at 165 overcooks it.

Divide the dough, flouring lightly so it does not stick, and roll each to about six inches.

Fry in oil at 350; when the shell just starts to colour, bend it into a chalupa shape with tongs (and a spatula), hold it, and brown the sides and bottom.

Over medium heat, melt a circle of cheddar the size of the shell, press the shell into it as it starts to melt, and let cool.

Fill with chicken, avocado ranch, cheese, bacon and pico.