Chicken parmesan, oven-baked lower calorie version, against a deep fried restaurant baseline

Baseline version: bread the salted, book-cut cutlet through flour, beaten egg and panko seasoned with dried oregano, grated parmigiano reggiano and a pinch of garlic powder.

Baseline version: heat oil to 350F in a large wok, lower the cutlet in away from you, fry one side to golden brown, flip and fry the other, then drain on paper towels.

Baseline sauce: olive oil, diced onion, carrot and celery and a pinch of salt cooked until the onion is translucent, then blended whole tomatoes poured in.

Simmer low about 20 minutes, then raise to a stronger simmer until well reduced and thick; adjust salt, and sugar if acidic.

Baseline assembly: fried cutlet on a baking sheet, a couple heaping spoonfuls of sauce, parmesan reggiano and low moisture mozzarella, under the broiler five to seven minutes.

Why the textures differ: in hot oil the water in the food evaporates rapidly as steam bubbles, oil is absorbed, the egg protein coagulates and sets the crust, and the Maillard reaction browns it in six to eight minutes. Hot oil carries more energy than hot air because it has more molecules, and it convects around the food, so the same sequence in an oven takes far longer and overcooks the chicken.

Quarter the onion and remove the outer skin.

Blitz a whole can of peeled tomatoes smooth in a food processor.

Put the tomatoes, onion and 42 g butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat.

Simmer around 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until reduced and thick.

Off the heat, add salt bit by bit to taste, then sugar only if it is too acidic; add basil at the very end off the heat.

Slice halfway into the chicken breast with a sharp knife, leaving a hinge, so it opens like a book and lies flat for even cooking; flatten with a pot if needed.

Sprinkle generously with coarse kosher salt and set aside.

Set up three plates: 15 g flour, beaten egg, and the pork rind panko with dried oregano, parmigiano reggiano and a pinch of garlic powder.

Wet hand dry hand: drop the chicken into the flour and toss to coat it completely dry, then into the egg and turn to coat, then into the seasoned panko, pressing the crumbs on all over.

Move to a wire rack over a baking sheet and spray the exterior with three one-second sprays.

Bake at 500F, or 475F on convection, for about 10 minutes.

Switch to the broiler and cook about eight minutes, flip, and broil another eight to ten minutes until browned and crispy; timing depends on the oven and the size of the breast. Longer gives a crisper crust and a more overcooked chicken.

Put the cutlet on a baking sheet or oven safe plate, spread on the sauce and top with parmigiano reggiano and low moisture mozzarella.

Broil around five to seven minutes until the cheese is melted and starting to brown, then top with minced parsley.