Chicken tamales with salsa verde

Reconstitute the tamal masa with three quarters of a cup of hot tap water until it holds together when squeezed but still falls apart.

Beat the room temperature lard in a stand mixer until it lightens in colour, which means air is being beaten in; chill the fat briefly first if the kitchen is hot.

Beat in a teaspoon of baking powder and a teaspoon of salt.

On slow speed add the masa in three additions, mixing well between each, until very stiff.

Pour in about a cup of chicken broth in a thin stream until it looks like a thick, light cake batter that falls off the beater.

Test it by dropping about half a teaspoon of the batter into ice water: it should float, which means enough air has been beaten in.

Roast the husked tomatillos, the unpeeled garlic and the stemmed green chilies on a rimmed baking sheet under a preheated broiler about four inches away, about six minutes, then flip and roast about six minutes more until blotchy black.

Peel the garlic and put everything, including the juices from the sheet, into a food processor; pulse briefly so it keeps some texture rather than becoming a smooth puree.

Mix the coarsely shredded chicken into the salsa with the chopped cilantro and about half a teaspoon of salt. This filling is salsa and filling in one, so the tamales need no salsa at the table.

Soak the corn husks in hot tap water about two hours until pliable, or overnight, and line the bottom of the steamer with the smaller torn ones in a star pattern.

Lay a soaked husk with the cut-off end toward you, scoop a quarter cup of masa onto the centre of the base and spread it into about a four inch square, leaving about half an inch at the end.

Lay a portion of the chicken filling down the centre, use the two sides of the husk to roll the masa completely around the filling, bring the sides together and roll them round, then fold the empty end under.

Squeeze the bottom to make a tight fold and stand the tamal upright in the steamer, never lying down. It can also be tied with a strand of corn husk, but not too tightly, since the baking powder makes them expand.

Pack the steamer so the tamales stand up, filling gaps with balls of foil, and drop a coin into the water in the bottom.

Bring to a boil over high heat, then regulate so steam puffs continuously for about an hour, topping up with hot water if the coin stops rattling.

They are done when the masa no longer sticks to the husk as it unrolls; turn off the heat and let them stand in the steamer 15 or 20 minutes so the masa firms up.