Chiffon cake (tube cake)

Line the sides and tube of the nonstick tube pan with foil; do not grease the pan.

Heat the oven to 325.

Whisk the cake flour, salt, baking powder and about a third of the sugar together; make a well in the center.

Add the seven yolks, the oil and about half the milk; whisk from the center outward to coat the flour in fat.

Add the remaining milk and the vanilla; whisk until very smooth with no lumps. Any zest or other flavoring goes in here.

In a very clean mixer bowl, combine all 10 whites, the cream of tartar and all the remaining sugar at once.

Whip starting at medium-low, raising to medium once foamy and then to high, until very stiff peaks that stand straight up.

Whisk a third of the whites into the batter base to lighten it.

Fold in about half the remainder with a spatula, then the last of the whites, stopping when almost streak-free.

Fill the pan no more than three quarters full, bake any excess in a ramekin; tap the pan sharply on the counter to burst large bubbles.

Bake until risen, cracked and golden and a tester in the tallest part comes out clean, over an hour.

Cool upside down ideally; here the foil let the cake slide out, so it was cooled right side up on a rack.

Unmold: tug from the center, peel off the foil, cut around the bottom with an offset spatula and invert.

Serve slices with blackberries macerated in sugar and lemon juice spooned on top, and whipped cream.