Chipped beef and gravy loaded baked potato

Freeze the steak about half an hour, until firm but not frozen solid.

Stab the russets once or twice, coat in olive oil and salt, bake directly on the rack until squishy, about an hour.

Optional: put some beef broth in a Pyrex with the dried porcini, bring to a boil in the microwave, and leave to steep.

Cut the celery in big chunks and the carrots a little thinner; slice the green onions thin, keeping whites and greens separate.

Shave the firm sirloin as thin as possible at a shallow angle across the grain.

Heat olive oil in the widest pan until just starting to smoke; brown half the beef, seasoning as it goes, without burning the bottom of the pan; remove.

Add more oil if needed and brown the rest of the beef laid flat and left a minute; season, stir, cook through and remove.

Fry the green onion whites in three or four tablespoons of butter; stir in enough flour for a thick paste, thinning with more butter or oil if needed.

Gradually stir in the mushroom-infused broth a little at a time, leaving the sandy last bit behind; discard the mushrooms; scrape the bottom, bring to a boil to thicken, adding more broth to keep the texture.

Return the beef, add the carrots, and after about five minutes the celery.

Simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes, adding broth or water as it thickens.

Taste; add pepper and a splash of soy sauce for salt.

Open the potato and dig it out a little; ladle in the stew, lay the potato chunks back on, more gravy on top, a dill pickle spear and raw green onions.