Cold-smoked brisket, beef ribs and pork butts, with hot-smoked pork ribs

Load the trimmed, seasoned briskets, beef ribs and pork butts into the cold pit (about 1 a.m., 16 degrees outside).

Set the main stack damper one step open from fully closed, and the auxiliary stack about half to 60% open so heat bypasses the cook chamber while it fills with smoke.

On hot coals, build a log cabin of four stacks of three logs; once flames lick up through the logs, close the firebox door to barely cracked.

Leave it to cold smoke overnight (planned about seven hours), monitoring the chamber with a meat probe; overnight peak was 225 on the bottom grate, average about 192.

After about five and a half hours, add logs to the remaining coals and run the pit at 275 for a couple of hours.

Total cook the next day about six to eight hours after the overnight cold smoke; hold in a warmer until serving.

Rest the top-rack beef ribs in foil once barky and done (cooked unwrapped throughout); wrap the pork butts.

Once the briskets push through the stall, wrap them in butcher paper with tallow and return them to the pit.

Add racks of pork ribs on the top rack, not cold-smoked, cooked hot and fast as a comparison.

Shred the pork butt; slice the brisket and cut burnt ends.