Corned beef stroganoff

Put the corned beef brisket in a pot, sprinkle over the spice pack, and cover by a couple of inches with cold water.

Bring to a boil on high, then hold at a gentle simmer for two and a quarter hours, adding a splash of water now and then if needed.

Transfer the meat to a bowl and let it cool completely; reserve about a cup of the cooking liquid.

Trim off most of the surface fat from the cold meat.

Cut into about five strips with the grain, then turn and slice across the grain into bite-sized pieces of even shape and thickness.

Cook sliced mushrooms in a skillet over medium-high heat with a drizzle of vegetable oil and a big pinch of salt until the moisture they release dries out and they brown.

Add diced onions and cook on medium-high until soft, translucent and starting to turn golden brown.

Add a couple tablespoons of butter and stir until melted; clear a space and cook the minced garlic, stirring, 30 to 45 seconds without burning it.

Stir in a couple tablespoons of flour and cook, stirring, a couple of minutes to make a roux and take the raw edge off the flour.

Pour in white wine to deglaze, add the reserved cup of cooking liquid, raise the heat to high, bring back to a boil and reduce by about half until it thickens.

Season with freshly ground black pepper and a few shakes of cayenne; no more salt, since the corned beef is highly seasoned.

Add a couple cups of beef broth and reduce again until thickened, not too thick.

Stir in the creme fraiche and reduce a couple more minutes until the sauce returns to its earlier thickness.

Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the sliced corned beef, push the pieces under the surface and heat through; check the seasoning.

Serve on buttered noodles, garnished with chopped fresh dill and a dollop of sour cream.