Crispy double-fried french fries with spicy special sauce

Set a pot of water to boil. Peel about six russet potatoes (or leave the skins), square them off, slice into quarter-inch sheets and then quarter-inch fries.

Add a couple of generous pinches of salt and 30 ml of vinegar to about 2 litres of boiling water; boil the fries 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, in batches.

Spread the boiled fries on a paper-towel-lined baking sheet to dry.

In a completely dry wok heat 32 oz of peanut oil, with a little lard if wanted, on high to 400F, checking with a thermometer.

Divide the fries into three small batches; fry each 50 seconds for the first fry, then drain on a second paper-towel-lined sheet.

Cool the fries 30 minutes before the second fry, or freeze them for later.

Sauce: mix three parts mayo, one part ketchup, one part sriracha and some minced chives vigorously; taste and adjust.

Bring the oil back to 400F and fry in small batches, keeping it around 350F, until the fries float and are lightly golden, about three to four minutes.

Toss into a paper-towel-lined metal bowl and salt immediately; repeat with the rest.

Strain the cooled oil into a Mason jar to reuse four to six times.