Deboned dry-brined roast turkey with turkey demi-glace

Turn the bird to face the backbone; cut down one side of the spine and peel the meat off the central skeleton, following the bones with the knife.

At the hip and shoulder joints, grip the joint with kitchen scissors, twist hard to dislocate, then snip the ligaments.

Peel the breast meat off the ribs down to the sternum; rotate the bird and repeat on the other side to free the carcass. Save neck, giblets and carcass for the sauce.

Trim remaining cartilage; debone the thighs and legs by cutting down to the bone, peeling meat off the sides and sawing the knife out under the bone.

Pull the large tendons out of the legs with pliers; save for the sauce.

Debone the drumettes; cut off the rest of the wings whole for the sauce; trim cartilage and large globs of fat.

Fold out the tenderloins and make one or two shallow cuts into the thickest part of the breast so it lies flatter.

Season the flesh side with salt, pepper, dried thyme, sage, garlic powder and onion powder.

Snip the leg quarters off the breast; place dark meat and white meat skin side up on separate trays.

Salt the skin and season with the herbs, no garlic or onion powder; tuck exposed meat under the skin.

Refrigerate uncovered to dry the skin.

Roast the bones, neck, skin and trimmings with halved onions in a roasting tray at 400F/200C.

After about half an hour, squirt on tomato paste and flip the pieces; roast about an hour in all without letting anything burn.

Submerge in filtered water; add dried porcini, whole peppercorns and bay leaves; bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cover with foil.

Simmer, stirring and topping off the water, keeping it barely bubbling, until a bone breaks easily, about 16 hours.

Fish out most of the solids; boil to reduce by about a third.

Optionally add a packet of unflavored gelatin and boil to dissolve; stop before it thickens much.

Pass through a sieve into a bowl nested in a larger bowl of ice water; stir to cool, about 10 minutes.

Cover and chill until the fat rises; scrape the fat off the set stock.

Boil the stock down in a wide pan until syrupy, stirring constantly once it thickens.

Add a glass of white wine and keep reducing, stirring, without burning.

Season; scrape into a bowl, chill and reheat on the day.

After 48 hours, roast the turkey trays at 400F/200C, basting the skin once or twice.

Take the dark meat to 185F/85C and the white meat to no more than 160F/71C; rest.

Optionally melt butter into half the reheated demi-glace over very low heat without bubbling; taste and re-season.

Slice the boneless meat on a board and serve with the sauce sparingly.