Deep-fried sopes with shredded beef

Work the masa until tacky but not sticky: it sticks a little to the finger, not a lot.

Add a teaspoon of baking powder, a teaspoon of salt, a quarter cup of flour and a little lard; work together with the fingers, keeping it tacky.

Add a splash of cold water, about a tablespoon and no more; a little liquid goes a long way in masa. Work until softer and slightly more sticky on the fingers.

Cut into four even pieces and form each into a disc about three inches across and a full inch thick.

Cook on a griddle or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until browned underneath, flip and brown the other side, about four minutes per side; they will not be cooked through.

Once cool enough to handle, split each in half like an English muffin.

Pinch up an edge with thumbs and first fingers, widening to about three and a half inches; go round again with the index finger to make a straight wall and keep the bottom flat so the masa cooks through evenly.

The formed sopes can be refrigerated, very well covered, a day or two ahead.

Heat about an inch of oil to about 375 (shimmering means about 350 or higher; the edge of a sope should sizzle); deep fry until golden.

Drain upside down on paper towels. They hold about 20 minutes in a very low oven.

Fill each with a couple tablespoons of reheated shredded beef and finish with a good dusting of grated queso anejo; salsa optional.