Deviled eggs with mustard and olive oil

Steam half a dozen eggs over an inch of boiling water for 12 minutes.

Shock in an ice bath, peel and split.

Put all the yolks in a food processor with a tablespoon of mayonnaise, a teaspoon and a half each of spicy Dijon and white wine vinegar, and a dash of hot sauce.

Process until smooth, up to a couple of minutes, scraping down the bowl a couple of times with a rubber spatula.

Add a tablespoon or two of extra virgin olive oil a little at a time, pulsing in between, so it emulsifies into a creamy mixture.

Season aggressively with salt, and a splash more vinegar, hot sauce or mustard if wanted.

Transfer to a zipper-lock bag, push into one corner and cut the corner off with a paring knife.

Pick the 8 best-looking egg white halves and pipe the filling in generously, back and forth for fluting, until overflowing.

To serve, drizzle generously with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle with a pinch of chili flakes or cayenne, minced chives and coarse sea salt.