Dim sum-style steamed pork ribs with black beans

Wash the ribs, wringing and kneading them in four to five changes of water until it runs mostly clear; this tenderizes the meat and loosens the muscle fibers.

Spin dry in a salad spinner, or roll in paper towels.

Make a brine of about two cups of water, a couple teaspoons of kosher salt and about half a teaspoon of sodium carbonate (or about one and a half teaspoons of baking soda); stir to dissolve.

Massage the pork in the brine and soak at least half an hour, or about 12 hours in the fridge for better results.

Drain and spin dry again.

Marinate with salt, a teaspoon of sugar, about half a teaspoon of white pepper, a couple teaspoons of Shaoxing wine, a teaspoon of sesame oil and chopped fermented black beans; if using black bean sauce, cut back the other salty ingredients.

Rest at least half an hour at room temperature, or overnight in the fridge.

Add scallions (and diced chilies if available) and about a quarter cup of cornstarch; toss to form a slurry coating, adding a splash of water if dry cornstarch remains.

Toss with a little oil to separate the pieces and spread in a single layer in a wide heatproof bowl.

Steam in a bamboo steamer over water in a wok for at least 15 minutes, up to about 45; turn the heat to low after 15 minutes to hold.

Add snow pea greens for the last 10 minutes or so.

Stir to break up the ribs and serve over rice.