Drunken chicken rolls (zui ji juan)

Put 3 cups water in a saucepan with 2 star anise, 1 cinnamon stick, about 15 cloves, 1 tsp fennel seed, optional 3 g sand ginger and 5 g goji berries.

Bring to a boil, then simmer uncovered over low heat about 15 minutes, until reduced by roughly a third.

Add 1 cup Shaoxing wine, bring back to a boil to cook out some raw alcohol, then simmer.

Season with 2 tbsp salt, 1 tbsp sugar and 2 tsp MSG; once dissolved, turn off the heat, cool to room temperature and refrigerate.

Debone two large chicken legs: cut to the thigh bone and scrape it free, cut along both sides of the leg bone, cut it off at the ankle and remove; trim excess fat and cartilage.

Pound the meat flat with the back of a knife for about a minute.

Skin side down, roll tightly from the narrow drumstick end.

Roll tightly again in gauze or cheesecloth, tuck in any meat that squeezes out, twist the ends and tie with twine, also tying the centre.

To rapidly boiling water add a glug of Shaoxing wine and about an inch of ginger; set in a steaming rack, add the rolls, cover and steam 15 minutes.

Turn off the heat and leave in the steamer 5 minutes more.

Dunk the rolls briefly in an ice bath.

When cool, cover with the chilled brine (goji berries and large spices removed as wanted) and refrigerate overnight.

Remove the twine and cloth and slice from the centre into about half-inch pieces; plate with a few goji berries and spoon brine over.